SUPER SIP is a new form of SIP that does not need to use OSB like most Garden Rooms or Aluminium cladding like Grenfell. PIR was long thought to be totally non-combustible. PIR was only ever tested on the small scale of a two floor wall. PIR is not fireproof on a large scale; and we only found that out after Grenfell; it simply was never tested at such a scale. Further - it was the polythene adhesive that was highly combustible. Here we use Mid Density Polyurethane; on PIR just like with OSB SIPs.  Gorilla Glue Original, this expands slightly. 

We use full sheets of KingSpan Kooltherm, and then we use full sheets of KingSpan Greenguard; these are used on external insulation and are typically rendered - other brands of XPS are used for wet rooms builds ups too.  We use XPS on the outside because its is waterproof whereas PIR is "moisture resistant" (it is unaffected by water, but water can  penetrate it) - and  then we use PIR on the inside because unlike XPS it is fire retardant; precedence such as the Pheonix Foam House used concrete render only as its fire defence, click here to read more. 

We use a High Density Polyurethane Adhesive called Knauf Jointing Compound which is used in wet room build ups; the glue sets to an extreme hardness; not even a Stanley Knife can cut it back once its dry. This adds to the structural integrity - which is obviously the main concern and in many regards the aim of the game here. Instead of seeing a building envelope as a strong structure that needs to be insulated - we see insulation as a warm structure that needs reinforcing. A year of experiment and testing was done on strength calculations alone. Click here to read more. 

We use a heat lamp; to cure the adhesives; this is the same process an annealing metals. We starts the lamp off low, and then gradually pull it up higher. The goal is to allow the expanding's glues to penetrate the through the impervious material. You cannot see it here but the surface is dimpled to allow the adhesives to expand into and key into the materials; much like with lath and plaster - the traditional form of plastering. This process allows chemical bonds to form between the foam and the glue - PIR is a type of urethane and thus actually welds together with the adhesive the same way steel does with  solder, or concrete does with mortar.  To read more about this plastic welding process and how we from carbamate bonds click here. 

Each igloo in the range belongs to a category of regular polygon angles. R6 is a rotunda with a 60 degree angle; and B6 is a barrel vault also of a 60 degree angle. This allows us to use the same jigs and templates for most of the range as all of the range are made from the same 100mm of PIR and 100mm of XPS.  To see our range of small and short, skinny but tall and short and fat igloos, click BABA, PAPA, or MAMA. Even though we are confident that 100% foam construction is perfectly safe when done right; we are working hard to get permission to build fully habitable Garden Annexes for NANA;  but there is much red tape to get through - even though 100% Foam Construction has been practiced in the US, Russia and China  - it has never been tried in the UK or EU. 

The jig allows us to cut the same angle each time with equal cleanness and precision. Hand saws can be used too but reciprocating saws with blades designed to cut through metal are the best for cutting through the high density expanding polyurethane glue.  The only limit with this method is there is a potential for human error; and we cannot cuts chamfers only straight bevels. To see some of our more advanced custom jigs in action click here. 

For irregular angles we use a hotwire cutting tool. However this lacks precision; for applications that require more than a jig we use the  7 degree Hot Wire CNC machine from Frog Wire - it can cut almost any shape. 1 degree means that the wire moves along the X axis; 2 degrees means it can go up or down too and 3 degrees means it can move up and down and back and forth in the same movements. 5 degrees means both the vertical axis can move interpedently of each other; creating sweeping curvy stuff - and 7 degrees means there is a turn table below.  See more here. 

The next stage is to tape the ends together and create a hinge. We use wet-room tape by Mapei; it is rubber that has fibreglass filament tape flaps on it; these flaps are the same material as plasterers skim tape. The tape is self adhesive but is further joined by rolling on Mapei's Aquadefence - this is a brand of Vinyl Ester; which is a mix of epoxy and polyester resin. When we waterproof a wet room we are doing the same thing as boat builders do to waterproof timber.  See here for other systems built this way. 

Taping the back like this makes sure that the expanding foam does not leak out of the back, or force the boards to lose the plot.  We use a sharped dowel, or sharpened broom handle to poke large holes in random direction in both type of foam - and much like with the higher density polyurethane adhesives this foam expands and keys into the foam. 

Then the two boards are sat down back on the A frame to clamp together under its own weight; and the heatlamp is lowered down and slowly raised to get the glue to cure slowly and anneal this. 

This may not look so strong but my sainted mother was totally against this scheme until I stood on top of one of these joins. See here for a picture. 

The full cure time of Sticky PU is more than a week; we assemble the structure in that interval using the same tape, spray, clamp technique. We sharpen 5mm steel rods with an angle grinder and ram them in by hand until there is too much resistance. These steel rods achieve two tasks simultaniously. They add a mechanical bond to the chemical bond, making a tight clamp to allow the chemical reaction between the PU  foam glue and the PU type foam board; and they act as a rebar too; just with reinforced concrete. 

The rebar nails are driven through all the way; and allowed to come through the other side. Each nail is driven in with a jig to ensure accuracy; and it actually take a lot of hammering; here I have shown us using a engineers hammer, because we have found a builders hammer just won't do. 

The angle grinder cuts the ends off; each layer has one rebar nail every 400mm just like with traditional rebar; and then another one going crossways. The vertical walls don't need rebar and the arch holds itself up.  Here we have two doors, one on each side - if you request a heavy duty door instead of foam or Perspex door we will have to add more rebar nails.  

We hope to pivot IGLOO towards a fully CNC method; FrogWire and FrogMilling requires significant capital expenditure; but we can manage without CNC. In this image we are using routers to cut a recession for a timber door frame; and another channel is being milled out  inside for electrical cable. The cable channel is then covered with a plastic shield and then spray foamed over. This practice is done in houses too and is perfectly safe from an electrical hazard perspective.  To make double safety sure, we do not ship it with the wiring complete; but with a loose cable hanging out of an electrician to put the pattress panel on and test during the final installation. 

This tool works just like the bag wrappers at the airport; 

The igloo is painted with vinyl ester used traditionally in fibreglass roofing and wet room build ups and the the IGLOO is spun on a carousel with a roll of low density stand mat is applied; The Lantech Machine runs up and down ensuring an even spread. The IGLOO is already waterproof at this stage; but it is not theft of vandal proof as it has little impact resistance to point loads. This  method can wrap the IGLOO is all sorts of things, but fibreglass is best; if you are seeking an even stronger igloo; you may want us to use Kevlar or even the spun carbon fibre filament made famous by the 2023 submarine implosion.  It's a similar make up. 

For finer applications we us a stand mat chopper gun, this tool shoots out filiments of fibreglass and sprays epoxy and polyester resin at the same time. Then we hand roll the unstuck bits on. The inside is left with bare foil to reflect the infra red heat; this is now nearly an air tigh structure so should not need additional heating and can be heated only by your computers, your dogs and yourself. 

For finer applications we us a stand mat chopper gun, this tool shoots out filiments of fibreglass and sprays epoxy and polyester resin at the same time. Then we hand roll the unstuck bits on. The inside is left with bare foil to reflect the infra red heat; this is now nearly an air tigh structure so should not need additional heating and can be heated only by your computers, your dogs and yourself. 

All UK flatbeds are 2.5m wide; enjoyably - on sheet of Kingspan PIR is 2400mm.  These are the same vehicles we will be using to collect the igloo when customers refuse to pay after 28 days. This is why we can keep the prices low - as we do not need to waste funds on risky contractual disputes.